How to do an overnight trip to Chichén Itzá
Updated: Sep 28
You can do a Chichén Itzá day trip from Cancun on an air-conditioned bus that arrives around 10 AM unleashing throngs into Mayan sun, and that method is popular for a reason. What if instead you could drive and have the park almost to yourself not to mention sleep in a centuries old hacienda?
Getting there: Highway 180D (Lessons Learned)
Highway 180D, which is a new toll road, opened just months before we arrived and is a straight shot from Cancun to Villadolid. In search of the highway, we rumbled though a chaotic construction site. Suddenly we were on the smooth but seemingly deserted toll road!
We assumed, at some point there would be an ATM or bank where we could get some cash but we came up dry at every stop so I figured we'd pay the toll with a credit card. The attendant at the first toll was insistent that she couldn't take a credit card, ONLY Mexican Pesos. She eventually relented and pulled a credit card reader out from under the desk (phew). The problem is, there are no ATMs, anywhere. I downloaded the toll road app and spent more than an hour trying to configure it to no avail. Every toll stop was the same terrifying story. We'd pull up, the attendant would ask for cash pesos, we'd sheepishly say we only had cards. The attendant would insist they didn't take cards and then eventually relent and pull out the credit card swiper.
Stay
We survived Highway 180D to arrive at our hotel, Hacienda Chichén (https://www.haciendachichen.com/), which is housed in a historic Hacienda nestled deep in the Mayan jungle. Until recently Hacienda Chichén had its own private entrance to the archeologic site, which is mere meters away from the property edges. That entrance is no longer open due to some sensitive archeologic studies in the area. Still, the hotel is only a few minutes drive away from the main entrance to the archeologic site. It’s an eco-forward place where they grow much of the fruits and vegetables they use in the restaurant right on the property and you can hear the chickens that provide the eggs! They also request that guests not kill any insects they may encounter in the room; instead call the staff and they will gently move them.
We arrived just in time for dinner and drinks and then wandered the grounds as a flock of parrots flew overhead. The service and surroundings were spectacular. That night, as we were tucking ourselves in in our bungalow, I imagined jaguars and ghosts roaming in the Mayan remains in the forests surrounding us.
After gorging ourselves on a breakfast of mango, papaya, and melon the next morning, we arrived at the archaeological park right around eight AM. At park entrance, we encountered official-looking people in orange vests flagging drivers into parking lots along the driveway. We passed several of these unofficial businesses, hoping to get closer and before we knew it we found a spot right near the entrance.
Visiting the Site
Chichén Itzá is the only cultural heritage site I’ve ever been to that allows vendors to set up inside the perimeter. We got there early and the vendors were setting up, joking with each other and not paying attention to the tourists. One of the most common items for sale are ceramic jaguar whistles. The vendors blow these jaguar noise whistles and it’s like the pied piper; they are simply irresistible to children. In all fairness, they do sound like jaguars, and this was so tempting to our kids that we had to haggle with a vendor to procure one. We also bought a lovely carved wooden jaguar.
You could literally spend weeks exploring the site, from the snake slithering down the side of el Castillo to the Cenote Segrado. When we visited, the Gran Juego de Pelota was off limits to visitors, which had been at the top of my list to see. I think my favorite part of the site was the Mil Columnas area which is on the eastern side of el Castillo.
Anyway, spending the night nearby and visiting the site early gave us the opportunity to wander quietly at our own pace and get up close to the ruins without worrying about photobombing other visitor's pictures. If you decide to make this journey, whatever you do, make absolutely sure you have CASH pesos before leaving the airport and getting on the highway.
