3 easy kid- friendly hikes around Lucerne
Updated: 4 days ago
Walking into Bierliebe & Friends https://bierliebeandfriends.ch/ along the bank of the Reuss River, we planned on a casual dinner spent googling “hikes near Lucerne”; instead the warmest and friendliest waitress in the world chatted us up, asking where we were from and offering suggestions for family hikes for the time of year (early April- mud season) and weather (mostly cold with occasional sprinkle). “You have to hike Rigi” she insisted.
We traveled to Lucerne in April looking to enjoy some of Switzerland's famous "Active Relaxation". With a population of about 80,000, Lucerne, on the shores of Lake Lucerne, with its sweeping mountain views, feels tidy and compact. Efficient public transit makes it easy to get around while wide promenades along the lakeshore are perfect for an afternoon stroll.
Luzern City walk
Our first "hike" is really more of a "walk". We started right in front of our hotel (the Monopol Luzern https://www.monopolluzern.ch/) and headed toward the Reuss river where we crossed at the Chapel Bridge. The bridge was built in the 1300s, but a large portion was destroyed in a fire in 1993 and the distraught citizens of Lucerne painstakingly reconstructed it.
My kids loved watching the water fowl, nicknaming the local coot species "Plague Doctor Duck". From the Chapel Bridge (and all along the promenade) you can watch swans, mergansers, and wood ducks. We could even see a merganser diving in the clear river under the bridge.
After crossing the bridge we meandered through the altstadt, popping in to souvenir shops on our way to the 200 year old Löwendenkmal, "The most mournful and moving piece of stone in the world" according to Mark Twain. Seriously, look at its face and feel the feels. The monument honors the Swiss guards that fought in foreign wars.
We headed to Matthias-Luchsinger-Platz for a slow walk along the lake where we watched more swans and coots swimming along.
Then heading in the other direction we walked along the Musegg Wall and visited the Wachtturm; this is where things got interesting.
Looking ahead we noticed what appeared to be a thin fog setting along the river valley, then we heard the sirens. An apartment fire was burning about ten stories up. It was fascinating watching the well-trained professionals handle the situation. The firefighters launched a multi pronged attack on the fire from inside the building and from the ladder truck outside. They had the fire contained in about ten minutes.
Obergütsch- a pleasant country wander
We still had our sights on Rigi, but unfortunately the weather on our second day was not conducive so we needed to explore another option. The women at the Swiss tourist office near our hotel recommended Obergütsch and sent us on our way with a bus map. Many hotels in Switzerland, including the Monopol, offer free passes on local transit, so we caught the #10 bus to Obergütsch.
The apex of the bus route is a turnaround in the suburbs. When you deboard at the grassy hillside you can just wander into the field.
The rolling hills of the Obergütsch area have stunning views of the nearby mountains, valleys, farms and even a vineyard. Huge ground snails slide along the ground.
There are a number of paths to wander so you can choose sunny fields or shady woods. As we wandered, we found a parkour course and a playground for the kids.
The funicular operator was on break when we passed by so we had to save that experience for another time.
We recharged our batteries with a hearty lunch at the Schwyzerhuesli restaurant in the field on our way back to the bus stop. (https://www.schwyzerhuesli.net/). The brusk but efficient waitress, who was completely unimpressed with my attempt at German, brought us plates of heavy Swiss fare.
Rigi- a spectacular hike
Finally, after three days in Lucerne the weather broke and we had the opportunity to hike Rigi. The journey began with an hour long boat ride to Vitznau through the majestic lake Lucerne valley.
It’s a 50 meter walk from where we disembarked in Vitznau to the perfectly timed train that arrived right after boat docked. The Swiss are so good at this!
The train climbs the steep grade of the mountainside. Hikers take the train up, hike down and then catch a descending train at one of the many stops along the way. This allows you to tailor your hike; if you feel like stopping then squat at the station and wait for the next train, if not, keep walking until you reach the next station and so on.
We started our hike at the stop half way to the top because we were warned the top of the mountain was snow covered and we weren't dressed for that.
At the stop halfway up the mountain there's a super cute restaurant and a shop so you can fuel up before your hike. Prepare yourself for stunning scenery. I had to pinch myself because the views were so spectacular! Keep in mind on this hike you’re mostly hiking downhill and that tends to stress the quad muscles and knees. Also the path can be rocky at times so use caution to not roll your ankle.
We passed two of the stops before the kids got tuckered out and we caught the train back to Vitznau. We enjoyed a hot chocolate on the boat back to Lucerne.
I know that many people also hike Pilatus mountain, but when we visited the weather didn’t cooperate. I guess that's the disadvantage of visiting early in the spring. Still, I wouldn't trade our experience for anything!
